Sunday, January 18, 2009

A "unilateral cease-fire" from Israel - how very thoughtful

Israeli politicians and military officials have called for unilateral cease-fire - just in time for America's savior, Mr. Obama, to take office.  I'm sure he and his people appreciate it.

Meanwhile, Gazans continue to discover more bodies under the collapsed buildings, hospitals, schools bombed by Israel over the past 23 days.  Given that 1/3 of the 1,200 killed (so far) have been children, we might expect that this ratio will continue.

I write from Cairo, host to supposed "peace-making" talks, or at least "bilateral cease-fire" talks.  Let's hope.  Not "hope" as in "Obama Hope", but hope for an end to the slaughter of innocents - the 3 (three) Israeli civilians who have been killed over the past month; the near-400 Palestinian children plus another 200 or so innocent women killed in that same time.

I won't say more.  I will leave it to Ellen Cantarow, "friend of a friend".

I COULDN’T SAVE A SINGLE CHILD

When I was a child my mother used to cry, “I couldn’t save a single Jewish child.”  

Now I am my mother: I cannot save a single child in Gaza.

Not the ones wrapped in green cocoons lying row on row, surrounded by throngs of grieving men. I cannot comfort the fathers who jump up and down in agony, screaming as their children lie dead before them on the ground. 

I cannot comfort the mother whose eyes, ravaged and blanked by terror, stare beyond me from the photograph, nor save the little one with bloodied, bruised face who stands beside her, nor the older brother, the only two who survived of six. I cannot say, “Come, we have a big, comfortable basement with a bed for you and the children, and a bath, and plenty of food. We will take you and shelter you.” I cannot welcome them to a home full of calm, of sunlight, with the warmth of potted plants, the refrigerator full of food, the showers waiting to receive them, the warm water streaming down to comfort their bruised and tired bodies. 

I cannot save a single Gaza child. 

Not the ones I saw on Al-Jazeera lying dead with heads all bloodied, under blankets on the ravaged ground. Not the little one, maybe 2, maybe 3, bloodied bandages covering her bloodied skull and face, her bruised lips showing and part of one dull and hopeless eye, her helpless bigger sister, surely no more than 4, beside her. I cannot take her and bring her back to normal life, hug her and sing to her, take her to my piano and ask her to listen to the strings as I run my fingers over them, watch while her face lights up with pleasure as she spots my cats, hold her, and hold her, and hold her….

I cannot save the little girl, maybe 5, who says the soldier stood and looked at her, then shot her hand and then, as she turned to run to her mother, her back: “One bullet went out my back and through my stomach.” Will doctors in a hospital the siege had already drained of medicines and equipment, a hospital where patients must share beds, where the floors are full of the wounded, and the blood pools around them --- will the doctors working quickly, as expertly as they know within the chaos of the terrified families pouring in from the terrified streets of Gaza City, will the doctors working as quickly as they know, but in this wasteland, save her? 

I cannot save the newborn Mohammed, monitors on his chest, a respirator over his tiny face, born within the ground-shaking, ear-splitting terror of bombs falling from F16s, into a life from Dante’s inferno, a life where the smoke of exploding shells and bombs gags the other children, the women, the men, fleeing helpless before the behemoth wielding their “pure arms” to crush these “two-legged cockroaches,” [Yitzhak Shamir's infamous phrase] these Palestinians of whom Golda Meir said, “There are no Palestinians,” and whom the Hebron settlers curse in savage scrawled grafitti: ARABS TO THE GAS CHAMBERS. These people of whom the Rabbi said, “One Arab is not worth a million Jewish fingernails.” About whom Avigdor Lieberman, that man of the Israeli people, says, drop the atom bomb on them as the Americans did on Japan. 

I cannot lift the dark-faced, dark-haired teenaged girl from the stretcher, rock her in my arms and say, “Darling, Shhh, it will be all right,” because it will not be alright. She is already dead, face down on the stretcher where the hopeless cover her body while I watch her image at my computer. 

It will not be alright. 

It will not be alright. 

It will not be alright. I am my mother, and it is 1942 all over again, and this is the Warsaw Ghetto – different, I’ll admit. I’ll admit they aren’t killing everyone. Just some of them. Only 400. Only 600. Only 800. Only 1000. When does “collateral damage” become malice aforethought? When does that malice translate as “deaths?” When do deaths become “a massacre?” How many in a massacre? A holocaust? The shoa Mr. Vilnai wanted?

I cannot save a single child in Gaza. I am my mother, and we are weeping together. 

ELLEN CANTAROW Counterpunch, Weekend Edition, January 16-18, 2009


Monday, December 22, 2008

Heading to Cairo (again)

Sabbatical, here I come!

I leave Friday, 26 December.  Cannot wait to get back home to Cairo, and back to a research-mode for a change ... I'll have 4 months (mostly) in Cairo on my research and then another 2 months (nearly) of 2 dialogues in May and June (one, our traditional Arabic language/Middle East Studies dialogue; and a new dialogue for Journalism and Middle East studies majors).

But, long before then, it's research and writing time for me.  

Saturday, June 21, 2008

"Best Program/Group Ever" ... reflections before leaving Cairo

I'm leaving for the Cairo airport in about 18 hours from now.  The students made it safely home to Boston (I know that for sure), and my hope is that they made it safely to their final destinations - Pennsylvania, New York, Rhode Island, Western Mass., New Jersey, Alaska (yes, one from Alaska!), and wherever else they had to go.  Before I leave the country, and get back to the craziness of NU summer activities - freshmen orientation starts Tuesday; tinkering with budgets for this program and for the year ahead; etc. - I want to reflect quickly on this program.

First, this group is easily the "best group ever"!  Yes, I do tell all groups that they are the best, and in this case it is easy to say categorically that they are the best group I have ever brought to Cairo.  One completely personal reason is that my daughter was here for the entire length of time, and her sister joined us half-way through the program for a brief period of time, so as a father, this group was above and beyond all others!  Second, this group was the largest group I have ever brought here, so by shear "weight" (and height, given all the very tall students we had here!), i.e., by "volume", this group was the "best".  Third, my goal of getting students from "non-traditional programs" (i.e., beyond the Arts & Sciences) to Egypt was achieved - 11 Engineering students and their amazing professor (Dr. Mo Taslim), at least one business student, one from criminal justice, plus many other disciplines beyond political science, history, middle east studies, and international affairs joined us (psychology, linguistics, music). Fourth, the "dialogues" were great successes, even more than ever.  The Egypt Dialogue was a huge success, thanks to Fulbright Commission and the wonderful Egyptian students they brought plus of course our own students' commitment "to dialogue"; plus the Arab Dialogue in Abu Dhabi was a truly amazing experience, thanks to the Arab Women's Organization and H.H. Sheikha Fatma.  Fifth, Cynthia was her typically amazing self - organized, patient, supportive, and knowledgeable about Egypt and our students and their needs.   And finally, this group was so amazing.  They were "troopers" as I've said all along -- including when we were semi-stranded in the middle of the Sahara desert enroute to Siwa!  99% of the group got along, went along, and grabbed all the gusto that Egypt and the program offered them.  

All in all, the intellectual diversity of this group, the family connection :-) , and the overall "chemistry mix" of personalities, makes me one very proud professor.

Yalla ("let's go") ... let's start planning 2009 and see if that yet-to-be-determined group can attempt to rival this year's!


Thursday, June 19, 2008

Last night in Cairo ...


Our 3:30 am flight to Cairo from Dubai went well.  As we waited for the Egypt Air counter to open, our students found free wireless!  So, the picture tells it all - everyone pulled out their laptops and "checked out" of the group chat, and "checked in" to their emails ...

We arrived to Cairo just around 6 am; Abduh met us at the airport; and we got back to Zamalek to check into our hotels (Flamenco for the 6 men; Marriott for the women).  It's 11:30 pm here; Abduh and the bus will arrive at 1:30 (2 hours from now) to pick up the women, then we're off to Flamenco to get the guys and then back to the airport!  Ugh, yes, we are all quite sick of traveling ... but it was very nice to come back to Cairo after Abu Dhabi and Dubai (back to our "reality", and to say a fond farewell to our host city for the past 6 weeks).

I know the students can't wait to be home tomorrow.  And I know you who love them can't wait, too!  Enjoy them and enjoy their stories ... and let them find their own time and way to share their experiences with you.  It might take them a day or an hour or a week, but share them they will.  I look forward to reading all their "reflections" on their/our collective and individual experiences. 

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Women's Union of the United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi


Today, we were treated to a wonderful visit to the General Women's Union of UAE, led by the visionary "Mother of the Emirates", Her Highness Sheikha Fatma Bint Mubarak ... yes, the woman most responsible for our visit to her country.  H. H. Sheikha Fatma is the widow of the founder of the UAE, Sheikh Zayed.  Both of these people are much beloved here in Abu Dhabi and across the UAE.  Sheikha Fatma (who also is the "First Mother", as in the "Queen Mother" or the Mother of the the President of the UAE, Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed al-Nahyan (son of the founding president Sheikh Zayed).

Got it?  "All in the royal family" ... and this is one Royal Family that has tremendous support and much love of their subjects.

HH Sheikha Fatma founded the General Women's Union in 1973-74, just 2 years or so after the founding of the state of the UAE in December 1971.  The work of the Women's Union cuts across a number of fields - computer training, family assistance, legal aid for women and families, protection of Emirati heritage, etc. etc.

Our students - men and women alike - donned traditional outfits of Emirati men and women.  And they became quite "animated" (or, "camped it up" for those of you who might know what I'm trying to say).  After our tour, the women were treated to henna on their arms, hands, and/or legs while we men just sat and watched -- and enjoyed the warm hospitality of Mrs. Nora al-Suwaidi, the general director of the Women's Union.  We "hung out" in a traditional (?) tent, albeit one with closed doors and air conditioning!   Still, it was "traditional" in that we rested comfortably on rugs and cushions, enjoying a non-stop flow of drinks, Emirati food and dates.

Our time in Abu Dhabi is fast coming to a close ... we leave for Dubai at 7 pm tonight (the departure time has already changed 3 times ... but it is finally fixed at 7), and plan to visit the Burj al-Arab (the 7-star hotel) and perhaps the Mall of the Emirates, with its famous indoor ski slopes!  Then the 7-star airport!, until our 3 am departure for Cairo ... and then, less than a day there before the group returns to Boston Friday afternoon.  If I don't get a chance to "post" again until after that, I'll make a final posting about our entire program/trip/travels as soon as possible.  

Thanks for reading, and for your comments!  AND PLEASE, once you do hear from your children or "loved ones" on our Egypt Dialogue, PLEASE let me know your impressions of their impressions :-)   i.e., let me know your reaction to all they tell you and all they share with you.   Either post your own comments here, or if you want to be more private, email me at d.sullivan@neu.edu


Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Closing Ceremonies and a change of plan for Dubai

This picture of our closing ceremonies is a bit blurry ... but that's fitting.  We're all quite a bit "blurry eyed" - we've been working our heads and hands off for 3 days straight!  Our students have been engaged as much in a professional development workshop as a dialogue (our cross-cultural [Arab - American] discussions continue apace).  And their days have been quite full -- mostly spent doing research, preparing power-point presentations, discussing fine points of social, cultural, political and religious differences and similarities.  (And the 33 Arab participants, from 14 different Arab countries/societies have their own considerable differences as well as similarities, and they, too, have intense discussions within and across their various Arab societies.)

This morning, we visited the still-under-construction (as it has been for 12 years already) Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.  Wow!  Check out my "djspics" blog, linked above, on the left.  It is much more than just "grande".  It is an architectural work of art as well as a beautiful place of worship.  We also visited Abu Dhabi University (and met the President and the Chairman of the Board).  And, we had a tour of the Emirates Center for Strategic Studies and Research (note picture on other blog with Ms. Howaida and pictures of the Royal Family of UAE).

Tomorrow, we've changed our plans for Dubai.  Primarily, we're all just so exhausted, and it makes more sense to hang out/relax/rest up here, in Abu Dhabi in this exquisite InterContinental hotel (I am sure it's much more than a 5-Star hotel!).  On our way to the Dubai airport tomorrow night, we will still get to see the city and especially that other architectural wonder of the UAE, the Burj al-Arab 7-Star hotel!  Then, off to Dubai airport by midnight for our 3 a.m. flight back to Cairo.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Hard at work in Abu Dhabi

Our Arab and American participants in this "dialogue/workshop" are hard at work this morning, finishing up their 7 different presentations; I'm taking a quick break as they finalize their powerpoint presentations for viewing after lunch today.  Please see my "djspics" blog (link to the left of this post) for some pics of this morning's activity.